Victorian Gippsland & High Country – A traveller’s tale

On 20 August the four of us – Allyssa (the missus), Gypsy (the dog), Rhubarb (the cockatiel) and yours truly started our annual travel adventure for 2023. This adventure was shorter than the past years as we had already travelled to New Zealand earlier this year. We planned to be on the road for about six to seven weeks.

Week 1

For our first stop, we stayed four nights at Narooma beach, NSW.

We then travelled to Tilba Tilba and were looking forward to having a fantastic country breakfast, only to find out that this beautiful town is closed on Tuesdays.

Next we headed south to Genoa, just over the boarder into Victoria, to freedom camp for two nights. We were greeted by two friendly roosters. I thought I would be the only rooster on site!

From there we headed off for breakfast at Cann River, then explored Orbust before ending up at The Stockmans Camp, a working cattle and sheep station, in Buchan South for three days. Recently the owners decided to branch out and offer a Farm Stay experience.

Week 2

We ventured off to visit Lakes Entrance – a beautiful coastal town. While visiting the township, I thought I would get out my chainsaw and sculpture a couple of figures along the way.

We then moved on to our next camp site for six nights at Nicholson.

We explored Bairnsdale, Paynesville and Metung – all fantastic lakeside towns. 

While walking along the Main Street of Paynesville, we noticed a number of black swans nesting – unbelievable!

We visited Sale, Stratford and Maffra – all busy inland country towns.

Week 3

On Fathers Day we started off at Neerim South for three nights. On our first, we received 20mm of rain, but were as snug as a bug in a rug”!

On our first day, we stopped off and walked around Warburton, then took the tourist drive through the Dandenong Ranges, visiting the townships of Cockatoo, Olinda and Sassafras. While at Sassafras, we enjoyed some Devonshire Tea – yummo!

We were also amazed at the large Rhododendrons flowing all through the ranges.

Neerim South is a small regional town and is also known for its large Bower Bird population.

Next we based ourselves at Doncaster for four nights to catch up with some dear friends.

On our first day there, at 10º their coldest, windiest and wettest day since early June, we ventured out to Melbourne CBD and enjoyed some sightseeing and a lunch of Chinese Dumplings.

On the next day, when we met Peter and Joan, thankfully, the weather improved slightly.

And then to Acland Street, St Kilda to enjoy some pastries and cakes. Named ‘The Best Cake Strip in Melbourne’, it is world-renowned for their Italian pastries. Well, we werent disappointed- wow. So much to choose from.

Later in the day, we took in some sightseeing around St Kilda, including the Palais Theatre and Luna Park. The theatre has had a major facelift – it looks fantastic. Back to its original self. However, Luna Park is now showing its age.

Week 4

We packed up and travelled to Molesworth for the next five nights. Bloody big trees in Molesworth!

Over the next four days, we visited Yea, Yardley, Alexandra, Eildon, Buxton and Murrindindi..Alexandra and Yea are regional towns; all the others are ’One horse and one pub towns’.

We experienced some fantastic Spring weather over those days – 22º during the day but cold nights at 4º.

Then we packed up and travelled to Whitfield for five nights.

During our trip there, we stopped off at a small town called Bonnie Doon, where the movie ‘The Castle’ was filmed. ”Tell ‘em they’re dreaming”.

Week 5

For a small regional town, Whitfield has something for everyone- a pub, a brewery, a provider store, a café, a petrol station/general store and a winery or two – all surviving because of the large AirBnb market.

The café at Whitfield is called Hobbledehoy. A bit of useless information: the name means an awkward bad mannered adolescent boy”.

We ventured off and visited Wangaratta to pick up some supplies, then headed to the Milawa Cheese factory. What a selection of cheeses. We came away with some King Valley Blue, King Valley Camembert and King Valley Vintage Gold. All very yummy.

We also spent a full day looking around Oxley, Moyhu, King Valley, Nug Nug and Myrtleford. We then travelled back via Lake Buffalo. Except for Myrtleford, all are pretty little rural towns.

During the week we visited the township of Glenrowan – well known for Ned Kelly’s last stand. Some say Ned was a hero, some say he was just a hardened criminal; the debate still lingers today after 150 years.

We really enjoyed staying at Whitfield, so we decided to extend our stay to nine nights. 

This part of the Victorian high county is really pretty and there’s heaps to explore. Plus the spring weather so far had been fantastic.

We also enjoyed a couple of beers and a nice meal at the local pub, and spent two days just relaxing around our site and campfire.

Week 6

We started to pack up and get ready to move on to Beechworth, but it was such a beautiful day, Allyssa decided to take me to the King River Brewery for an ale and lunch. Allyssa had to twist my arm! Bloody fantastic.

We took our time and travelled to Beechworth to relax for the next three nights. 

A slight difference in the weather: when we were there last year it was wet and 2º; this year it was sunny and 23º. 

We then travelled to Colac Colac (pronounced as Clack Clack) for the next five nights. We read a lot of positive reviews about Colac Colac Reserve, but when we arrived we were blown away with the scenery.

That weekend was time for just some R & R – no exploring.

It was  a long weekend both in Victoria and NSW, and also grand final weekend for both the NRL and AFL. For AFL supporters, congratulations to the Magpies. One of the closest grand final games for a long time. And I have been forced to watch a few.

Week 7

Sunday was the start of daylight saving. Another beautiful sunrise. That evening we watched the NRL grand final between the Broncos and the Panthers. Another good and close game. Congratulations to the Panthers.

On the Tuesday we packed up, crossed the VIC/NSW boarder and travelled to Coolac (near Gundagai) for our final three nights.

We arrived home safely on 7 October after a great adventure. The weather was very pleasant – warm days and cold nights. We were also very fortunate to miss the bushfires and the flash flooding that started just after we left Victoria.

Graham Smith