Mango Magic
The deeper into the season of Summer we travel, the cheaper mangoes become, until it seems churlish to buy anything less than a tray. Every year I seize this aromatic bounty, only pausing to wonder, after I lug them home, what the heck will I do with 25 rapidly ripening mangoes?
As a child I spent quality time with mangoes at a farm near the Queensland sugar town of Bundaberg. The majestic green canopies of mango trees provided a vision of cool in the swampy heat of my summer school holidays. I would sit on the ground with my back against the sturdy trunk of a mango tree, devouring the golden fruit and as their sticky nectar rolled down my elbows I watched the snakes slither through the sugar cane fields.
The mango tree is native to India, where it has been cultivated and revered for at least 4,000 years. The word mango probably originated from the Tamil man-kay. In the Ayurvedic medical tradition, mangoes are recommended as a balancing and warming remedy. Nutritionally, mangoes are a good source of vitamin B and C, fibre, and several of the antioxidant rich carotenoids, including pro vitamin A. In the same family as the cashew and pistachio, the mango tree has large evergreen leaves, a very climbable trunk, and left to its own devices can reach 30m high and 38m wide, although they are kept to manageable size for harvesting. The oldest mango tree has been clocked at 300 years of age. In the 16th century the Portugese fell in love with mangoes when they were trading in India, and took them to Africa and later Brazil. Mangoes are now cultivated and enjoyed in virtually all tropical and subtropical countries. Sadly, they don't do so well in our beautiful valley.
There are over 40 varieties of mango, with fruit varying in length from 5cm to over 25cm, and in weight from 100g to a whopping 2kg. They can vary in shape from almost round to narrow and elongated. Indians prefer their mango skins yellow, whereas Europeans prefer yellow turning to red and American like theirs red.....Australian mangoes are usually orange. 80% of the Australian crop consumed fresh, with the most popular mango being Kensington Pride (also known as Bowen) followed by the larger variety R2E2 and the sweet Asian Nam Doc Mai.
Mangoes ripen well even when picked green. In fact, worms tend to invade if they are left to ripen on the tree. Optimum temperature for ripening is 18-22C and between 10-12C for storage. Ethylene is the gas used for ripening, it softens the flesh, changes the skin colour, converts starches to sugar, reduces acidity and enhances the development of flavour and aroma. Mangoes need to breathe - so never store them in plastic bags
Mangoes are a clingstone fruit, which means the woody seed needs to be cut away from the flesh. The posh way to serve mango is to cut off the two side cheeks, with the skin still on, turn them over flesh side up, and cut diagonal lines through to the skin, repeat in the opposite direction, then flip the slices inside out to reveal perfectly professional mango cubes. Mangoes can also be frozen. Place the cut up fruit in a container or bag with a squeeze of lemon or lime juice to prevent darkening. Mango juice is absolutely divine, especially as a base of eponymous daquiries. You can also pour mango juice into freezer trays or ice-block shapes to make a healthy summer treat. Mango juice is also popular in lassis, the refreshing yoghurty Indian drink. Mangoes can be used in cooking, they have natural enzymes similar to pineapple and papaya that can tenderise meat. Green mangoes are delicious in Asian style salads. These are not different varieties, but fruit chosen green, before the starch turns to fruit sugar.
This Summer I shall not fret about a mango glut. I will cook, freeze and drink the mango juice....but most of all I'll find a big old tree, sit underneath and consume warm ripe mangoes, and remember those Bundaberg summer holidays.